I used Norrell's Semi-Gloss on my FAL, GREAT STUFF!

To the following I add:
1) Bake your parts at 300+F for hours BEFORE you start refinishing,
you will be surprised how much grease + oil seeps out after 1/2 hour at 300F.

2) With the semi-gloss, if you want a slightly rough texture (looks great)
refinish the parts when they are still 300F, it might slightly weaken the finish, but no excessive wear is apparent on my firearm, while for a more glossy finish, spray the part cold with low pressure.

3) Parkerizing the piece before refinishing with moly coat yields a tough as nails finish.  This idea was given to me by Derek at AZEXarms.
 
 

BELOW IS A POST FROM THE HEAD REFINISHER AT NORRELL.
 

Basic Refinishing

By: Robert Tschiemer
Conway, Arkansas

For the past two years, I have been learning the art of refinishing under the patience of John Norrell, using his moly resin
firearms finish. I have no background in refinishing, and I have slowly been developing this skill. It seems that it would help if we
can share what we learn with others in the firearm community, so I put together this short summary. I asked Tom Bowers if I
may post this article, and he agreed.

The most time consuming process in refinishing is firearm preparation. This should involve removal of all grease or oil. If the
weapon has foreign substances on the metal in the nature of dirt, grease or oil, the finish will not penetrate and adhere to the
metal. In fact, often times an air hose's pressure can remove finish if it has not properly been applied, or it may flake or chip
prematurely. The importance of preparation therefore is a point that is critical to your result.

Many firearms have a large amount of grease in the receiver which may be difficult to remove. These include particularly some
of the weapons that are popular such as AK's, FN Fal's, et cetera. If a weapon has any grease, it must be removed. I have
learned if there is a large amount of grease or oil that it may be necessary to soak the weapon overnight in a degreaser. One
may spray Formula 409 or similar products on the parts in a sink as well. Be sure and do not place any aluminum or alloy parts
in any degreaser that will harm them, however. M-16's and other receivers, including suppressors, therefore should be used
only in degreasers which are absolutely safe for them; if in doubt, read all available manufacturer's specifications for the cleaner,
and it would not hurt to place a test piece of metal in the solvent. Overnight soaking may prove necessary.

When the part is removed from the degreaser, run copious amounts of water over the part to remove all solvent. You may then
want to dry it by spraying it with an air hose. I then will sandblast the parts. Next, you again wash the parts to remove all sand.
I have learned that sand can penetrate the nooks and crannies of metal and it must be thorough removed prior to refinishing.
Again, any foreign substance on the metal will cause the finish to fail to adhere to the metal. This requires removal of all sand.

Prior to sandblasting the weapon, you should block the barrel AND chamber to protect them. A cork of the correct diameter
works well for this, but you may use a paper towel as well.

After the completion of sandblasting and rinsing the sand thoroughly, again use an air hose to dry the parts, and then
immediately place them in your shop oven to dry them. Time is of the essence since once the weapon has its protective finish
removed by sandblasting, it may begin to rust, and some weapons, such an HK's may rust in a matter of minutes.

When you place the weapon in the oven, preheat it in preparation for applying your finish. In the case of moly resin, which I am
familiar with, you do not want to overheat the parts prior to applying the finish. Using an air compressor, apply the finish to the
parts with a paint bottle and air brush. Before doing so, it is essential that the moly resin be thoroughly shaken. The moly resin in
your spray bottle should be shaken with an automatic shaker if possible for a couple of minutes, because if it is not allowed to
thoroughly mix from the settling that occurs, you will not get a smooth finish. You will have cleaned the airbrush after each
project using a solvent you spray from a spray bottle. We use MEK (methyl ethyl ketones). You wear protective clothing,
gloves and goggles, and wear a protective certified mask for organic solvents at all times.

When you spray the metal parts, be sure that they are not overheated in your preheating, or it will cause a lot of your finish to
be wasted in evaporation, and it may affect the color of the finish. There is a difference in the temperature that you preheat the
metal with and that with which it is cured. I have my parts to preheat hanging in the shop oven with the temperature at around
150 degrees, and I let the oven heat up to that for about 5 minutes, or less, and then turn off the oven while I spray the parts.

On large receivers and barrel assemblies, such as on a Sig 550 or FN Fal, it may be necessary to place the part back in the
oven to reheat it again during the spraying process if it begins to cool down. When the part starts cooling down, you may notice
a difference in how the moly resin appears to adhere.

Hold the spray nozzle directly in front of you and look down it like you would a rifle, as you spray. If you hold it to the right or
left of your eyesight, you cannot as easily see whether you a missing spots. Spray using a sweeping up and down motion. I hang
the parts from a hook on one end of the parts. After you spray the parts, place them in the oven to cure. Turn the oven on again
to heat the parts. Then, turn off the oven again and take the parts out. Change the position of your hook to the opposite end of
the part, to spray the parts from a different angle. This also will allow you to spray the bare metal previously covered by the
hook or clamp, and not sprayed previously.

If there are any selector knobs, etc. you will have disassembled them previously, but if there are any parts left on the weapon
that could not be removed, be sure and rotate them to spray all parts. This is especially true, for instance, on AK's where you
have a sliding part of the sight that is moved by pushing in a button and sliding the metal down the sight. You must spray every
spot of the weapon where you sandblasted it, or it will rust.

I also spray inside the receiver, and move the hammer forward and backward. Again, be sure your chamber is blocked, to
protect it from the moly resin. Having the cork mentioned above in the barrel and chamber at oven temperatures will not hurt
since the cork will not melt.

After you have sprayed all the parts and are ready to cure them, allow the oven to heat at about 300 degrees for 1 hour. When
you later inspect the parts, be sure you have covered every spot, and if not then repeat the process on that part.

My background prior to the last two years has not involved refinishing, and if I can begin to learn these basic steps, I feel sure
any person can with time. The important thing is to not get in a hurry. Handle the parts you refinish carefully, avoiding dropping
them or banging them against the oven or other parts. If that occurs, you will have to sandblast the part again and start over
more often than not. That is the process of learning.
 
 

Revised Copy 6/1/01

Moly ResinÔ is a product trademark of John Norrell Arms, Inc. d/b/a Norrell Manufacturing. These finishes are specifically formulated from a phenolic resin base and molybdenum disulfide (a superior lubricant) with an exclusive blend of additives only available through Norrell Manufacturing. Our additives create a phenolic coating that is the hardest, most durable, and the most chemically/heat resistant thermally cured finish available on the market today. Our special low temperature catalyst will cause the Resin to harden and bond to the surface to form a barrier to acids, oils, paint removers, powder solvents, bore cleaners and other strong industrial solvents. The low curing temperature prevents possible heat damage to parts during the curing process. We select our phenolic base stocks from hundreds offered by Dow Corning and 3M. The combination of the most suitable base stock, our additives, and molybdenum creates a truly unique coating that represents state-of-the-art technology. No other thermally cured firearm finish available on the market today has the same characteristics and properties that Moly ResinÔ offers the professional gunsmith or home hobbyist. Moly ResinÔ is a coating developed for ordnance usage on equipment and weapons, providing excellent corrosion protection, abrasion resistance and lubricity to meet automatic weapon dry firing requirements after 60 days seawater immersion. Available ready to apply. No thinning or dilution is needed.

Moly ResinÔwill adhere to all metals including the following: aluminum, carbon steel, stainless steel, sandblasted and glass beaded metal, cast iron and aluminum, titanium, copper, silver solder, blued or parkerized finish, anodized, nickel and chrome plate, and many plastics, etc. Note: nickel and chrome plated surfaces should be sand blasted to allow the best adhesion of the Resin. For all metals, best overall results are achieved on freshly sandblasted surfaces. Moly ResinÔ is available in the following standard colors but they may be mixed together to create an unlimited variety of shades.

Colors Currently Available:

GRAYISH-BLACK - Dark gray-black coloration with an appearance between flat and semi-gloss. This duplicates the appearance of the original Colt AR-15/M-16 finish. This is the same product that is purchased from us by the U.S. Military to refinish Colt M-16's. This is our original formula that has the added benefit of turning slightly green if you raise curing temperatures above 300f. This creates a greenish parkerized appearance to match some older military finishes. If in doubt about the accuracy of your oven temperature, keep it at about 275f. May be mixed with our black, white, green, etc. to obtain shade changes.

FLAT BLACK - Black in coloration with a non-reflective dull matte appearance. Slightly darker shade compared to the above Grayish-Black Moly ResinÔ. Norrell Manufacturing supplies this Mil-Spec finish to the sub-contractors that manufacture USSOCOM (U.S. Special Operations Command) products for H&K and the U.S. Military such as the sound suppressor for the H&K Mark 23 SOCOM .45 Cal. pistol used by the Navy Seals and Special Forces.

SEMI-GLOSS BLACK - Black in coloration with a slight gloss that will duplicate the original H&K (Heckler & Koch) type finish. Good match to H&K, UZI, and other similar semi-gloss black gun coatings.

FLAT GRAY - Matches the U.S. Military gray parkerizing. May be mixed with our Green Drab to obtain a greenish parkerized appearance or our blacks for a darker gray shade. May be darkened by the addition of Black Moly.

GREEN (European Olive Drab). Olive (flat) drab green that has been tinted to resemble European O.D. colors of FNC, HK, etc. Also used by a large U.S. handgun manufacturer for their .45 cal. pistols. May be darkened or lightened by the addition of black or gray Moly Resin.

STAINLESS STEEL - Stainless steel powdered metal mixed with clear phenolic Moly Resin. Gives the appearance of brushed stainless steel when applied over any type of metal.

Characteristics and Benefits: MOLY RESIN Coatings

Moly ResinÔ was specifically designed for firearm owners. In the past, a similar finish was obtainable only by vatting or plating your firearm. Now, finally a product that can easily be applied in your shop or at home. Simply degrease, pre-heat part(s), spray with Moly ResinÔ , and cure in your oven for one hour. Moly ResinÔ can also be applied over existing finishes such as bluing, parkerizing, anodizing, plating, etc. or on a sandblasted surface. The coating adheres to all metals and most plastics.

Appearance:

The bonded coating will appear uniform in color, smooth and free from cracks, runs, sags, scratches, pin holes, blisters, bubbles, and foreign matter.

Thickness:

The optimal thickness of the coating will be between .0003" and .0009" unless a thicker coating is desired. The thin coating characteristics of less than one thousands of an inch allows easy re-assembly of precision fitted parts

Lubricity:

Moly ResinÔ contains molybdenum disulfide, which provides excellent anti-friction characteristics. Wear life is comparable to blued, parkerized and other common firearm finishes. Moly ResinÔ is a phenolic Resin that when thermally cured, produces the most durable thermally cured painted surface of any products on the market. Wear life when tested on Tabor Abrasurf with #CS10 wheel installed @ 500 grams weight minimum 235 RPM’s.

Thermal Stability:

The cured coating will withstand exposure at 500 f for 1000 hours minimum and 1000 hour minimum soak at -125 f. Minimum initial oxidation temperature is 880 f. Thermal breakaway is 1000 f minimum.

Fluid Resistance:

Moly ResinÔ will meet 24 hour emersion requirements in the following fluids: aviation gasoline, hydraulic fluid, jet fuel, lubricating oils, paint removers, trichlorethylene, nitric, sulphuric and hydrochloric acids, hydrogen peroxide, gun powder solvents, strong bases such as ammonium and sodium hydroxide, and numerous other strong chemicals.

Corrosion Resistance:

Moly ResinÔ , when applied to bare sandblasted cold rolled steel will pass the test procedures for salt water spray at 1000 hours, salt water immersion at a minimum of 1000 hours, accelerated salt spray test equivalent to 30 years marine atmosphere exposure, and 60 days sea water immersion.
 
 

Pretreatment: All Metals

The surface of the parts to be coated should be clean and free of any oils, solvents, etc. Best cleaning methods appear to be soap and water; however, a chemical cleaning with MEK, acetone, etc. is also acceptable. The dullest finish for each color is achieved by sand abrasive blasting the parts with a fine sand before coating. Glass beads may also be utilized for aluminum but are generally not abrasive enough for best adhesion of the Moly when used on steel and harder metals. Best overall finish is achieved by sandblasting with 60 to 90 grit size. This will give the best coat bonding and adhesion, as well as, uniform texture. Sandblasting removes minor scratches and metal surface imperfections. Chrome or nickel-plated parts should always be sandblasted for best adhesion.After sandblasting, rinse parts off with soap and water to remove sand dust and oil from the air compressor.

Application Procedures: All Metals

After sand blasting and cleaning, the part(s) should be preheated in an oven long enough to get the parts to a temperature of about 100 f. Shake the bottle very well to remove all residue from the bottom of the bottle. Remove parts from the oven and lightly spray Moly ResinÔ on the part(s) through an airbrush. Apply the coating from numerous angles and directions. Several light fog passes are more preferable than attempting to coat the part in one heavy coat. When warm parts are sprayed the liquid solvent will immediately be evaporated upon contact resulting in a very consistent finish. If parts cool down during spraying, you may return the partially sprayed part(s) to the oven for preheating back to 100 f. For a more dull or flat appearance, the parts may be pre-heat up to 300 f, however, this is not advisable with the semi-gloss black product unless a flat appearance is desired. The best semi-gloss appearance is achieved by pre-heating no warmer than 100f. Please note that the temperature catalyst in the Moly Resin line of products is set to start the curing process at a temperature that is not harmful to aluminum, steel, other metals and many plastics. Springs are not annealed (softened) at temperatures of 300 f or less.

Curing Procedures: All Metals

After part(s) are coated with Moly ResinÔ they should be cured in the oven at 300 f. for one hour. If you prefer, the temperature may be reduced to 250 f. and cured for 1 ½ to 2 hours instead of one hour at 300 f. The 300 f. curing temperature does produce the hardest coating. Heating metal firearm parts to 250 f. or 300 f. will not harm them. Please note that Moly Resin products are not paint. Although Moly Resin will air dry like paint, it will not harden unless thermally cured.

Pretreatment, Application and Curing of Plastics.

A variety of plastic parts are currently being used on firearms. Some for merely cosmetics reasons and others for weight reduction, toughness, or simply ease of manufacturing. Although these plastic parts do not rust, they may become discolored or scratched. In addition, they may not match the other parts of the firearm exactly in color. For example, the Colt M-16/AR-15 stocks are fiberglass with a black coating. If you scratch through the black coating the light colored fiberglass will show. If you want a perfect match of color between metal parts and plastic parts, Moly ResinÔ has been formulated to adhere and cure on most plastics. Plastics that are unsuitable are clearly those that will melt, soften, or otherwise be damaged due to the curing temperatures needed to harden the Moly Resin. In order to avoid possible damage to plastic parts such as stocks, forearms, barrel shrouds, etc., we recommend that you do the following: 1.) Reduce the curing temperature to 200 f. and cure for two hours, and 2.) Remove all metal parts from the plastic before preheating and curing. If your oven thermometer is not accurate you may accidentally heat the plastic to a temperature which will deform or melt so BE CAREFUL.

Refinishing Tips:

Heat: Preheating your part(s) before spraying will eliminate the possibility of runs. If you do have runs or "wet spots" instead of a dry smooth appearance when spraying, you are either spraying too close to your part(s), your part has cooled down, or you are spraying too much Moly ResinÔ on the part(s). It should be noted that Moly ResinÔ can be sprayed on parts at room temperature (no preheating) and then cured at 300f. If you do not preheat, you may find that you get what are called "fish eyes" in the paint industry. Fish eyes are very small spots that do not allow the spray to cover the metal and are usually caused by oils, silicones, or other impurities on the metal surface. Preheating allows the resin to cover these impurities.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Airbrush: The best sprayer for Moly ResinÔ will be an inexpensive external mix airbrush. They usually run from $5 to $50. and can be found at discount stores, as well as, hobby shops and are powered by a aerosol can of air, air tank, spare tire, or air compressor. The external mix airbrush mixes the air and Moly ResinÔ on the outside of the airbrush. External airbrushes are much easier to clean than internal mix airbrushes. In addition, internal airbrushes are usually more expensive.

An airbrush will spray a much smaller amount of coating thus reducing over-spray, waste and wet glossy spots. You may order an airbrush for $9.99 by contacting Harbor Freight Tools at 1-800-423-2567. Part # 06131-5JDB Airbrushes from $27.99 up are also available at Harbor Freight. Badger Model 350 is an excellent choice at your local hobby shop.

Adhesion: Failure to adhere to surface when cured is due to insufficient shaking, incorrect curing temperature, using glass beads on steel, and/or the presence of grease, oil, etc.

Clean Up: After spraying, run acetone or MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) through the airbrush to clean the tip. Acetone and MEK can be purchased at your local hardware stores or solvent supply houses. Do not run "rubbing alcohol" through your airbrush to clean it or use it to dilute or thin Moly ResinÔ . Rubbing alcohol has 10% to 30% water added for medicinal purposes. Do not mix or clean your airbrush with any solvent that has water. The water will immediately react with uncured Moly ResinÔ making it hard to remove from the airbrush.

Thinning: Moly ResinÔ may be thinned, diluted or cleaned up with MEK. Thinning is normally only needed if the lid on the bottle is left off allowing the liquid solvent to evaporate, however, you may leave the lid off the bottle if you wish to thicken the solution.

Agitation: It is very important that every time you use Moly ResinÔ to first vigorously shake the bottle until all residue is off the bottom. The residue is the molybdenum and tinting agents. Failure to shake properly will produce inconsistent coloration.

Touch Up: Moly ResinÔ may be applied over an existing cured Moly ResinÔ finish. Cured parts or complete firearms may be retouched by simply wiping the surface with alcohol, acetone, etc., preheating, and applying Moly ResinÔ very lightly with an airbrush over any marred or scratched surfaces. Cure at 250 f. to 300 f. for one hour.

Color Match: Moly ResinÔ colors may be mixed together to create the perfect shade for your project. Due to the variance in factory Colt color shades, it is usually easier to refinish the entire firearm rather than experiment with blending.

Rusted and Pitted Parts: There is no chemical reaction required between the metal and Moly ResinÔ for it to adhere as required with blues, parkerizing, anodizing, plating, etc; therefore, Moly ResinÔmay be applied over rusted or pitted areas that have been cleaned and filled by soldering, brazing, etc.

Firearm Disassembly: Moly ResinÔ may be used for cosmetic refinishing and/or as a protective coating against the elements. When used solely as a cosmetic finish, it is unnecessary to completely disassemble many firearms to refinish. In many instances a large sub-assembly of parts may be coated without disassembly. You may sand blast, preheat, spray, and cured as one large piece since the airbrush will allow you to apply a coating to internal cavities and parts that you find difficult to disassemble. For example: A revolver can be cosmetically refinished without removing the hammer or trigger mechanisms. The hammer can be left in the forward position and sandblasted, then cocked and again sandblasted. The sand can be washed out with water and blown out with air pressure. After preheating, the hammer can be sprayed in the cocked position and then allow to go forward and sprayed in the closed position resulting in all visible parts being coated.

Sand and Other Abrasive Materials: The most appropriate material to abrasive air blast your metal surfaces will be particles that are not round like glass beads. Fine sand and other fine commercially available abrasives should be in the 60 to 90 grit size. Glass beads merely polish the surface of steel parts and will not produce a surface with good adhesion properties. Glass beads on the softer metals such as aluminum will produce a surface that is satisfactory.
 
 
 
 

Spray Booths and Paint Masks: As with all spray paints and aerosol coatings, the use of either a standard automotive paint mask (organic fumes) or fresh air ventilation, or both, is strongly advised. The fumes should not be inhaled on a continuous and repeated basis. See Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for more information. A spray booth is not needed but is convenient especially in foul weather. A spray booth can easily be made out of a few 2x4 studs and clear plastic sheeting and constructed in the corner of your garage or shop. A simple inexpensive squirrel cage blower can be used to draw the over spray and fumes from the booth to outside air..

Ovens: A home-cooking oven can be utilized to provide the curing heat. Simply support the parts with metal hooks from the upper oven rack for preheating and then for curing after spraying. A more convenient method is to build a vertical oven using a "school locker." A vertical oven allows you to hang barrels and complete barreled receivers easily along with smaller parts. An inexpensive toaster type oven can be purchased at your local mass merchandiser and then disassembled. The heating coils can be installed onto the inner walls of the oven.. The thermostat and timer can be placed on the outside. If you decide to build such an oven feel free to contact us if you need additional information.

Other Applications: Moly ResinÔ is currently being used as a coating by manufacturers of shooting glasses, caustic chemical valve and automotive parts manufacturers, gunsmith schools, as well as, for surgical tools. The applications are numerous and varied.

Common Questions and Answers: (you are always welcome to contact us at our E-mail address to ask additional questions.)

1. How much product is needed to coat a firearm?

Generally speaking, three ounces of product will coat an AR-15 size rifle when using an airbrush. Handguns, magazine, etc. will require much less. If you use some type of other sprayer, you will use much more product to coat the same surface area.

2. How do I obtain a finish flatter in appearance than what the flat products already produce?

If you pre-heat to the standard recommended temperature of about 100 f. you will achieve the standard flat appearance. If you pre-heat the metal to a higher temperature such as 300 f you will achieve a flatter finish. Even the semi-gloss black product will appearance flat using a higher pre-heat temp.

3. The semi-gloss black when cured turns out with more flat appearance than glossy.

See answer # 2. Lower your pre-heat temperature.

4. When I cure the grayish-black product, it has a slightly greenish tint to it.

The grayish black product is designed to have a slight green tint if you exceed curing at 300 f. Lower your temperature if you do not desire the green tint. You may also mix our flat gray with flat black to create a grayish black product that will not turn produce a greenish tint.

5. The product will come off the metal after cured when I use common cleaning solvents.

The product must be cured at 250 f. to 300 f. for an hour. Check the oven temperature. Don’t trust the thermostat on the oven, especially if you use a home cooking oven. Purchase a cooking thermometer and place it in the oven. Please note: Moly Resin is not a paint that hardens when air dried. It must be thermally cured to harden and only then will it resist solvents and abrasions.

6. Can I make the coating harder?

Curing at 350 f. will produce a harder coat but less flexible. The optimal combination of hardness and flexibility is achieved at 300 f.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

7. I glass beaded the surface of the metal, pre-heated, applied the coating and cured it at 300 f. but it does not stick very well.

Don’t use glass beads to prepare the metal. Glass beads polish the surface of the metal therefore preventing

good adhesion of any type of coating including paint.

8. When I spray, I get wet shiny spots. Some of these spots show up after the finish is cured.

You are holding the airbrush too close to the surface and spraying too much coating in one spot and you may have let the metal cool down. Keep the airbrush a minimum of eight inches back from the metal and keep it moving. Don’t stop in any one spot and do not try to coat the metal in one pass. Pre-heating the metal allows the solvent to evaporate immediately to avoid runs and wet shiny spots. If the metal cools down put it back in the oven to warm it up.

9. When I pre-heat some parts, oil runs out of the metal. I keep wiping it off but it keeps bleeding out.

Some firearms have joints and cavities that are very hard to degrease fully. One way to get around this problem is to spray the parts without pre-heating. When curing, the oil will bleed out but it will be on top of the Moly coating. Once cured, you can then just wipe off the excess oil or grease with no harm to the finish or its adhesion.

10. When I spray, the coating appears to be thin and almost clear. I have to use a lot of it to get the metal coated. When I spray the coating, it sprays thicker and chalky and does not stick well once cured.

These are the same questions. Moly Resin contains powdered metal and other solids as lubricants to resist abrasions. The powdered solids and pigments are heavy and will settle out on the bottom of the bottle. You must shake the product bottle and the airbrush bottle well to keep these solid in suspension. If you don’t, you will spray almost clear phenolic resin without solids and then later as you get down to the solids, you will be spraying solids without the phenolic resin. The easy solution is to keep the product shaken well. No solids should be on the bottom of the product bottle or airbrush bottle after shaking.

11. I’m (actually my wife) is concerned with using our home kitchen oven for curing my gun parts.

1. All colors are the same price. $21.00 /8 ounce, $45.00 / per quart, $145.00 / gallon.

2. Prices include shipping charges via UPS in continental U.S. UPS C.O.D. is $5.00 extra.

3. We ship by UPS only, therefore we must have a street address, no P.O. Boxes are accepted.

3. We do accept personal checks. We do not accept charge cards.

4. We do not ship to Canada, Alaska or Hawaii since due to air shipping restrictions.

5. Moly Resin products cannot be shipped by air (overnight, next day, etc).

6. For quickest response please order by E-mail> SMG1022@aol.com or fax 501-225-7864.

Please Note: When ordering use the full product description such as, semi gloss black, flat black, etc.

Send Orders to:

Norrell Mfg. Inc., 13529 Saddle Hill Dr., Little Rock, AR 72227
 
 

Material Safety Data Sheet

SECTION I

Identity (as used on label): MOLY RESIN Grayish Black, Semi-Gloss Black

Flat Black, Green, White, Gray, Stainless, Tan, Brown, Clear.

Chemical Names: Solid Film Lubricant Coating (thermal cure)

Chemical Family: Specialty Phenolic Resin

Formula: Complex Mixture

Blended and Bottled by: John Norrell Arms, Inc. d/b/a/ Norrell Manufacturing

13529 Saddle Hill Dr., Little Rock, AR 72212

Hazardous Materials ID System (HMIS)

Health: 2

Flammability: 3

Reactivity: 0

Special Note: none

SECTION II - Hazardous Components and ToxicityConcentrations

Phenol (Cas # 108-95-2) Trade Secret

ACGIH TLV: 5 ppm (skin)

OSHA PEL: 5 ppm (skin)

It is a severe skin and eye irritant in rabbits.

Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no

Ethanol (CAS #64-17-5) < 30 %

ACGIH TLV: 1000 ppm

OSHA PEL: 1000 ppm

Mild irritant to rabbit skin and a sever eye irritant.

Oral consumption by humans causes intoxication

and gastrointestinal distress.

Carcinogenicity: animals and humans- no

Molybdenum Disulfide (CAS #1317-33-5) Trade Secret

ACGIH TLV: 10 mg/m3 as MO

OSHA PEL: 10 mg/m3 as MO

May be slightly irritating.

Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no

Methyl Ethyl Ketone (Cas # 78-93-3) >50 %

ACGIH TLV: 200 ppm

OSHA PEL: 200 ppm

OSHA STEL: 885 mg/m3

Eye and skin irritant and may cause CNS in humans

if inhaled in concentration stronger than 125 ppm.

Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no

Dibasic Lead Phosphite ( Cas #12141-20-7) <10%

ACGIH TLV: .15 mg/m3 as Pb

OSHA PEL: .05 mg/m3 as Pb

May cause lead poisoning if ingested.

Carcinogenicity: Animals and Humans - yes ( according to IARC)

Carcinogenicity: Animals and Humans - no (according to NTP and OSHA)

P.M. Acetate (Cas # 108-65-6) Trade Secret

ACGIH TLV: No Listing

OSHA PEL: No Listing

No adverse toxicity information available.

Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no

Methyl Isobutyl Ketone (Cas 3 108-10-1) <10%

ACGIH TLV: 50 ppm

OSHA PEL: 50 ppm

Irritating to the eyes and mucous membranes.

It is a narcotic in high concentrations.

Carcinogenicity: animal and humans - no
 
 
 
 
 
 

Residual Formaldehyde (Cas # 50-00-0) Trace

ACGIH TLV: 1ppm

OSHA PEL: 3 ppm

Irritating to skin, eyes, and mucous membranes.

Carcinogenicity: Animals-yes, humans-indefinite

Freon TF (Cas # 76-13-1) <10%

ACGIH TLV: 1000 ppm

OSHA PEL: 1000 ppm

Mild rabbit skin irritant. Over exposure in humans

may cause skin irritations and CNS effects in humans.

Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no

Cellosolve Acetate (Cas # 111-15-9) Trade Secret

ACGIH TLV: 5 ppm (skin)

OSHA PEL: 100 ppm (skin)

Mild eye and skin irritant.

Carcinogenicity: animal and humans - no

Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) (Cas # 9002-84-0) Trade Secret

ACGIH TLV: No Listing

ACGIH TLV: No Listing

Dust may be irritating.

Carcinogenicity: animal - yes, humans-indefinite

Stainless Steel (Powder)* (Cas # 7429-90-5) <10%

ACGIH LTV: No Listing

OSHA PEL: No Listing * used only in the Stainless Steel Moly Resin

Inhalation of powdered metals has been

reported to cause pulmonary fibrosis.

Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no

Inorganic Barium Compound <10%

ACGIH LTV: 0.5 mg/m3

OSHA PEL: 0.5 mg/m3

Mild skin and eye irritant.

Carcinogenicity: animals and humans- no

Toluene (Cas #108-88-3) <10%

AGCIH TLV: 100 ppm

OSHA PEL: 100 ppm

Suggested to cause liver damage in animals

if ingested.

Carcinogenicity: animals and humans - no

Isopropyl Alcohol (Cas # 67-63-0) Trade Secret

AGCIH TLV: 400 ppm

OSHA PEL: 400 ppm

Irritant to eyes, nose and throat.

Carcinogenicity: animals and humans- no

Xylene (Cas #1330-20-7) <10%

ACGIH TLV: 100 ppm

OSHA PEL: 100 ppm

Mild skin irritant in rabbits and a severe eye irritant.

Carcinogenicity: animals and humans- no

SECTION III - Chemical & Physical Characteristics

Boiling range 165 f. to 180 f.

Density 8.1

Vapor Pressure NA

Melting Point NA

Vapor Density (air =1) >1

Evaporating rate NA

Solubility in H2O Moderate

Appearance / Odor Gray-black liquid, organic solvent odor

Silver colored liquid, organic solvent odor (Stainless Steel Moly Resin only)

Volatile Organic Compound 672
 
 

SECTION IV - Fire and Explosive Hazard Data

Flash Point: 50 f.

Flammable Limits: LEL 4.3, UEL 19.0

Extinguishing Media: CO2, Foam, Dry Chemical, or Halon

Special Fire Fighting Procedures: None

Unusual Fire and Explosive Hazards:None

SECTION V - Reactivity Data

Stability: Stable

Conditions to Avoid: Open flame

Incompatibility Strong

Decomposition: Irritating and toxic fumes

Complex Hydrocarbons

Hydrogen Sulphide and Sulfur Dioxide

Polymerization: Will not occur

Conditions to Avoid: None
 
 

SECTION VI - Health Hazard Data

Threshold Limit Value: Not determined for product, see Section II.

Route of Entry: Inhalation, skin, and ingestion

Health Hazards: Eyes - can cause irritation, redness, blurred vision.

Skin - prolonged contact can cause irritation, dermatitis.

Inhalation - dizziness, nausea, fatigue, headache, unconsciousness or asphyxiation

Ingestion - can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea

Emergency and First Aid: Eyes - flush with copious amounts of water, get medical attention

Skin - wash with soap and water

Inhalation - remove to fresh air. If breathing is impaired, get medical attention.

Ingestion - do not induce vomiting, keep warm, and get medical attention.

SECTION VII - Precautions for Safe Handling and Use

Steps to be taken in case material is released or spilled:

Clean spill with absorbent material,

Eliminate ignition sources, wear gloves, goggles, and gas mask if ppm are exceeded,.

Waste disposal method

Dispose of waste in chemical land fill as approved by local, state and federal laws and regulations.

Precautions to be taken in handling and storing:

Protect from physical damage

Ventilate area away from acids, alkalis, and open flames

Other Precautions: None

SECTION VIII - Control Measures

Respiratory Protection:

Use NIOSH approved organic respirator if ppm limits are exceeded.

Ventilation:

Local Exhaust - used to maintain levels below toxic ppm.

Mechanical - use non-sparking or open flame equipment.

Special: None

Other: None

Protective Gloves: Chemical resistant gloves

Eye Protection: Wear safety glasses or goggles

Other Protective Equipment or Practices: None

INFORMATION ON THIS FORM IS FURNISHED SOLELY FOR THE PURPOSE OF COMPLIANCE WITH OSHA’S HAZARD COMMUNICATION STANDARD, 29CFR 1910.1200 AND SHALL NOT BE USED FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSES.